Retinol Alternative vs Retinol: What's the Difference?
Retinol has been the best-known ingredient for fine lines and skin texture for decades. It's also the ingredient people most often give up on, because their skin can't handle it. That's why plant-based “retinol alternatives” have become so popular. Here's an honest look at the difference.
The short answer
Retinol is a form of vitamin A with the most research behind it, but it often causes dryness, flaking and stinging in the first weeks. A retinol alternative is a plant-based ingredient — such as Bidens pilosa or bakuchiol — used to target the look of fine lines and texture in a gentler way. Alternatives are usually easier to live with; retinol has the stronger evidence. Neither works without daily sunscreen.
What retinol does
Retinol is converted in the skin into retinoic acid, which speeds up cell renewal. Over months, that can make skin look smoother, more even and less lined. The catch: especially at the start, many people experience redness, dryness, peeling and a stinging feeling, and retinol makes it extra important to protect your skin from the sun. Retinoids are also generally not recommended during pregnancy.
What a retinol alternative is
“Retinol alternative” isn't one ingredient; it's a category of plant-based actives used for similar goals. Our Retinol Alternative trio is built around Bidens pilosa extract, a plant extract used in skincare as a gentler way to work on the look of fine lines and skin texture. We combine it with vitamins C and E, hyaluronic acid and nourishing oils such as organic sea buckthorn and rosehip.
Side by side
| Retinol | Plant-based retinol alternative | |
|---|---|---|
| What it is | Vitamin A derivative | Plant extract (e.g. Bidens pilosa) |
| Evidence | Decades of research | Newer, less independent research |
| Typical irritation | Common at the start | Usually much milder |
| Use | Usually evening only, build up slowly | Often morning and evening |
| Sunscreen needed | Yes, essential | Yes, recommended |
Which should you choose?
- Choose retinol if your skin tolerates it well and you want the most proven option — and you're willing to build up slowly.
- Choose a retinol alternative if retinol has irritated you before, if you have reactive skin, if you're just starting with anti-ageing care, or if you want a routine you can use morning and evening without a break-in period.
- Pregnant or breastfeeding? Ask your doctor before using any active anti-ageing product.
How to use our Retinol Alternative trio
- Evening: a few drops of the Retinol Alternative Serum on a clean face, followed by a moisturiser.
- Morning: the Retinol Alternative Day Cream, then sunscreen when you go outside (the day cream has no SPF).
- Morning and evening: the Retinol Alternative Eye Serum, tapped gently around the eyes.
Give it at least four weeks of consistent use. None of the three products contains retinol. Combine two or more and 10% comes off automatically at checkout.
— Fabio Simbula, founder of Monsera